The Effects of Microdermabrasion on Collagen and Elastin Biosynthesis

Microdermabrasion is rapidly becoming one of the most popular cosmetic procedures performed by dermatologists and plastic surgeons. Microdermabrasion is a process that uses a high-pressure stream of aluminum oxide crystals and negative pressure to superficially peel the upper layer of the skin. Its purported benefits include improvement of photoaged skin, acne, and facial scarring.

The appeal of microdermabrasion is its effectiveness, simplicity, low patient and operator risk, and rapid recovery. Clinically, studies have illustrated beneficial effects on photodamaged skin.

Histologically, microdermabrasion has reproducible effects on the epidermis and dermis. Studies have shown a consistent increase in epidermal thickness as well as changes in the elastin content of the dermis while changes in collagen content have not been observed.

The reported clinical and histologic changes seen in previous studies suggest that alterations in the dermis precipitated by epidermal injury may be responsible for the beneficial effects of microdermabrasion on photoaging and scarring. In fact, others have reported that skin fibroblasts under tension may increase collagen synthesis.

Disruption of the epidermal barrier initiates a repair process that restores barrier function within hours to days, depending on the severity of the damage. This repair process involves increased synthesis of barrier lipids, followed by formation of new corneocytes. Elevated lipid synthesis largely occurs as a result of increased gene expression of the major enzymes responsible for lipid biosynthesis.